Showing posts with label runway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label runway. Show all posts
On Other Blogs....
Ariel Meredith struts in the Barbie show during NY Fashion Week
Jezebel lists the figures on how many models of color were represented on the runway during New York Fashion Week:
There were 116 labels that held shows at the recently ended New York fashion week; that's 3,697 spots in runway and presentation lineups. Of those, 668 were given to models of color — which, at just over 18%, is 6% better than one year ago. (And certainly better than in the fall of 2007, when WWD reported that one-third of the New York shows used no models of color at all.)
...
There were 7 shows that had no models of color at all. Those designers were: Altuzarra, Davidelfin, Jenni Kayne, Julian Louie, Koi Suwannagate, Temperley London, Vera Wang Lavender Label.
And there were 19 shows that had some models of color, but no black models. They were: Alexandre Herchcovitz, Behnaz Sarafpour, Costello Tagliapietra, Erin Fetherston, Halston, Marchesa, Max Azria, Milly, Miss Sixty, Monique Lhuillier, Nicole Miller, Philosophy, Reem Acra, Tibi, TSE, United Bamboo, Vena Cava, VPL, Vivienne Tam.
Legend: Yellow = Black models/ Red = Asian models/ Blue = Latina models / Green= Other ethnicities
The biggest winners (in terms of numbers of shows booked) contain the expected names: Sessilee Lopez and Jourdan Dunn*. Each appeared in 20+ shows while Arlenis Sosa's number was in the teens. Also spotted on multiple runways were Chanel Iman, Wakeema Hollis, Sessilee Lopez, Gracie Carvalho, Kinee Diouf, Georgie Baddiel, Mia Aminata Niaria, Ubah Hassan, Shelby Coleman, and Ataui Deng. One notable, 17 year old Lyndsey Scott (represented by Click) made a splash when she became the first woman of color to score an exclusive for Calvin Klein.
The rest of the article is here
*Edited to correct bad numbers on my part. It was Sessilee Lopez (and not Chanel Iman as I originally printed) who scored 20+ shows. Thanks to a careful reader for pointing out my mistake.
The Arise/This Day: African Fashion Collective 2009
Said the NYT:
... the show still gave the crowd plenty to get excited about. There was a surreal turn on the Xuly Bet runway by Grace Jones, whose exoticism has always been of the extraterrestrial kind. There was the vision of the Bryant Park catwalks filled with an array of black beauties and not, as the Memphis-born model Wa’Keema Hollis said, the “same old two or three token girls.”
Watch a video of the show here
S: MBFashionweek
Zoe Saldana in D&G
The dress itself isn't my personal cup of tea but it is a fun look. Accessories are key here and I think Zoe's slicked back hair, earrings and black pumps kick it up a few notches. The confident pose doesn't hurt one bit either. I just don't get the pairing of this dress with gladiator sandals on model Jessica Stam. It makes the dress look like a middle school sewing class project.
The holidays are fast approaching and once again, I will be going to the land of no reliable Internet access so I probably won't be posting again for a short time. Please everyone be safe and enjoy yourselves this holiday season whether you celebrate them or not!
pics: zimbio and style.com
Beyonce in Zuhair Murad
I kind of like this dress. It definitely flatters Beyonce's curves but I'm not too wild about how she wore her hair with the look. I think the way the model is wearing her hair shows off the neckline a bit more which is nicer and a little more romantic.
This dress should really be worn by the sexiest vampire at the party but Beyonce's expression and posture just say Miss Congeniality 2008 to me.
Pics: Lipstick Alley and TFS (masquerade)
Hussein Chalayan Spring 2009
I don't usually go in for the more avant-garde shows but Hussein Chalayan's Spring "ready to wear" show sure did put a smile on my face. One can really see the innovation in his creations. They really do belong up on stage because seeing some marginally talented starlet show up in one of these designs would be a major downgrade.
Chanel @ GUCCI - Don't Call it a Comeback...
Chanel Iman, who has worked an astonishing 40 shows this catwalk season between New York, Paris, and Milan, made headlines when she showed two looks for Gucci Spring 2009.
Fashionologie, reported that she became the first black model in a Gucci show since Tom Ford left and was replaced by Frida Giannini in 2005. Iman was the sole non-white model on the stage that was populated almost exclusively by models with nearly identical blonde shoulder length hairstyles.
Photo: fashionkid90/catwalking
Wakeema Hollis - On the Runway - NY Fashion Week
Her trademark afro is sadly absent from these images but I'm happy to learn that Hollis has racked up quite a few shows at Fashion Week. She will also be appearing in the Project Runway final but I won't spoil it by sharing which designer used her to close the show.
Tracy Reese - Spring/Summer 2009
I'm the woman who struggles with adding color to her wardrobe. I mean, I love bright colors and feminine florals, it just seems that when I do buy those things they end up kind of isolated in the back my closet. Tracy Reese has always been one of those designers who I secretly wish was my sister or best friend so I could raid closet without the regret I feel sometimes when I buy something pretty that I never wear.
The first thing that usually comes to mind when I look at her clothes is "cocktail party at Reese Witherspoon's house." That's not a bad thing, but it's not really me if I'm being honest. That said, there are plenty of beautiful pieces in this collection and many that would be easy to work into an everyday wardrobe, even for the color phobic amongst us.
My favorite item is the green/yellow floral belted bustier like top paired with the green pant.
S: nymag.com
WSJ: Tracy Reese Talks About the Importance of Diversity in the Fashion Industry
If you have a slow connection or can't play the video. Here is what she said:
I remember seeing other shows and being disappointed or waiting..."Are they going to have a black girl? Are they going to have a black girl? Are they going to have an Asian girl? [Will] there be anything besides white girls?"
What we see on the runway is picked up by advertisers, it's picked up by editorial in magazines. You know, it's obviously being seen by a younger and younger audience. I think of the general public and especially young people, if they only see one idea of beauty then that gives them...a very awful self-image.
It's like, 'the world doesn't accept me the way I am.' You can't overcome this, meaning what you are born with. I think we have to teach children to embrace who they are, their size, their color, their hair texture, whatever it may be.
I've seen my buyers select models that are similar to the ones I've used on the runway to advertise our clothing in their catalogs or in their stores.
They take cues from designers because they want to interpret your vision, you know, when they show your collection to their customers. I think there is all the more reason for we as designers to be really thoughtful and remember that the customer base is broad. I don't think we should deal in people like they are commodities or trends. I think awareness of how it feels to be on the other side of that has to be more broadly based.
Everyone has something whether they are a model or a regular woman walking down the street. I think I'm always interested in that thing that makes you unique or an individual.
S: Wall Street Journal
Carlos Campos to Hop on All-Black Model Trend
Using all black models has now become to lazy way to get attention in the fashion industry. Menswear designer Carlos Campos will unveil his first women's collection on September 7th in New York.He has shared that his inspiration for the show is the jet set glamourous lifestyle of iconic model Iman and her rocker husband David Bowie.
Sigh. Why not just use black, or other non-white models, because they are beautiful and look great in the clothes?
It's sad that those in the industry have interpreted the success of Vogue Italia as merely a publicity stunt and not the desire of fashion consumers to see more racial diversity in this once groundbreaking industry.
Even Campos' muse Iman expressed concern that black models would be seen as a gimmick after the publication of the July Vogue Italia.
Photo: DailyLife
ETA: Scriptgirl sent me a link to this article on issues of race and Fashion Week. It has a few good quotes from designers like Tracy Reese who remarked:
"I was pleasantly surprised this year. We're always calling up the agencies to say, 'We want to see black girls, Latinas, Asians, everything. ... There were a lot of new faces...For me, it's fun to see how different personalities enhance the clothes."
Designer Pamella Roland added, "Model casting has actually been easier this season. We're impressed by the sheer number and beauty of all ethnicities this time around. The only difficulty will be in choosing which girls we will ultimately cast."
Jada Pinkett Smith and Keisha Whitaker @ Nelson Mandela's Birthday Celebration
I absolutely adore this peacock inspired dress by Monique Lhuiller on Jada Pinkett Smith. Once again, a garment that looks merely passable on a runway model comes to life on a real life woman. I would never have thought that this particular shade would look so lovely on darker skin. Also, heavens be praised Jada's hair seems to have recovered from her disturbing Foghorn Leghorn period.
I have slightly mixed feelings about Keisha Whitaker's choice here. I've always admired her style and I love the Lanvin dress but I think it would have been nice to see her wear it in a brighter color, like the red version on Lily Donaldson. The black just looks a little too somber for the occassion.
source: Dlisted and DeonDiva
NYT: Caribbean Fashion Week
Carribean Fashion week may not be as well known at those in New York, Milan and Paris but it sure looks like it would be a lot more fun to attend. C.F.W. is a rarity in that it shows no signs of androgyny. Yanking up their bold Yardmanstyle t-shirts, the Jamaican male models flashed physiques that caused mass hysteria in the audience. And the heavenly bodies of the vari-hued Nubian catwalk beauties appeared to be silicone-free.
It remains to be seen whether Caribbean designers can achieve the same level of success that the region’s models are currently enjoying. As T & T’s Meiling said, summing up the spirit of the week: “Versace, Vuitton, Gucci — they all use Caribbean motifs and Caribbean music is everywhere. Now it’s time to make it happen in fashion for ourselves.”
Source
Thanks Camille for sending me the link!
caribbeanfashionweek.com
Fashion Blackout: The Play by Play
Photo: Models at Heatherette. When it comes to runways show it seems Blacks and Asians need not apply.There's a brief clip from BET's Fashion Blackout on Jezebel today. I finally watched the half hour special this evening and while it wasn't perfect, it was better than I expected from BET. I was hoping for a little more analysis from the likes of Vogue's Andre Leon Talley but microphone-shoved-in-face-at-fashion-show "interview" didn't really add to the topic.
Here is a rundown of the highlights for anyone who missed the show (please note that I've paraphrased many of the quotes here, my shorthand sucks and my toddler really wasn't into this show):
The show seems to have been shot during NY Fashion Week. The opening sequence is a melange of images from the runway and backstage. The voice over notes that, judging from models used at these show, "black is definitely out."
Runway stylist Kithe Brewster comes on and remarks that it is time to take a stand against this blatant discrimination. The stylist, who has worked for designers (Rubin Singer), actresses (Halle Berry) and on Project Runway, remarked that season after season the same people in charge only look for one or two black faces. Brewster made a point of hiring several black models for the Rubin Singer show and hopes that his actions will set an example for other designers.
One of the models he cast named Lily shared that because the Eastern European look is hot, that black models can't catch a break. Another model, Britnee said she was very aware during the show of how much she and the other black models stood out compared to the white ones. Model Ayan, shared that upon her arrival in New York for Fashion Week, she went to a couple agencies, one of which said that they "already have a black girl who looks like you." She retorted that the agency represented 150 white models who are styled in the exact same way and are working.
Popular designer Tracey Reese shared that she had to specifically request black models or the agency wouldn't send any to casting. "If black girls aren't going to castings, they won't get booked!" The top tier black models like Jordan Dunn and Chanel Iman are immediately booked for high end shows and Reese noted that she never gets the opportunity to hire them for her shows.
The voice-over adds that in 2008 Blacks are reaching unprecedented heights in the media industry but the fashion dinosaur lags behind the times.
Roman Young, the white Director of New Faces at Elite Models, said that fashion editors have told him quite explicitly not to send Black or Asian models to castings.
The voice-over notes that "black" style is pivotal to American culture.
Constance White, Style Director at Ebay and a former editor at ELLE, WWD, and The New York Times, recalls that Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy once used many black models on their runways--superstars like Veronica Webb, Beverly Peele, and Yasmin--and that "we took it for granted [that they would alway be represented in shows.]"
Roman Young linked the downward spiral to the grunge movement in culture and fashion in the 90s. "Grunge was not ethnically diverse" and the fashion at the time started to reflect that. Also, when stylist began to become more prominent, color started fading from fashion. Andre Leon Talley noted that "sameness" became the rule.
Bethann Hardison shared that in her view, the "white eye" doesn't understand black beauty and if the new vanguard, European designers like Prada and Balenciaga, aren't using ethnic models then that discrimination will trickle down and become the norm.
Claude Grunitzky, Editor in Chief of Trace Magazine, puts the blame on the "three or four editors in Times Square" who dictate fashion for a living.
Somewhat echoing remarks made by Stefano Pilati, Bethann Hardison said quite bluntly (and inaccurately in my view) that "the body of a black girl" can't compete with that of an Eastern European model. "These people haven't eaten for generations (laughs)...generation-wise these people are very lean...that is why West African models get work now, because of their very narrow hips."
Model Lily comes on the screen to add that a new black model walking into a casting isn't viewed as a fresh face, she is viewed as the black model. They only see color.
Model Ayan notes that as black people we buy clothes from these same designers and yet they won't give us the chance to do a show. We are very beautiful people.
Voice-over comes on and states that black women spend $20 billion on apparel each year.
Kithe Brewster again: "We have to be conscious of our buying power - if you don't see yourself represented in their ads, don't buy their clothes."
Roman Young then shared this piece of information that made me want to put stiletto heeled boot in someone's ass:
[Agencies] are concerned with "am I picking the right one?" -- meaning the acceptable black model. They have used the term "bushy" to describe "African looking" black models. "She's so black and so severe that she must be The One." She looks so different that she must be beautiful.
Bethann Hardison shares that the fashion industry is a very exclusive almost elitist environment that has become "quite fascist right now."
She continues, adding that fashion is mainstream now and not a tiny island like it once was. It strikes a cord when people talk about this discrimination because this country has a history of fighting against such things and asking why is this happening? This is dumb.
Constance White adds that for a designer or editor to say that he or she would use a black model if they could find one "smacks at the heart of this whole issue of racism."
The show ends with highlights from the Sean John men's runway show in which he used all black models of diverse colors, looks and fits.
Hardison ends by noting that "we" need to do our part as well and adds that she is there ready to cultivate the talent.
Roll credits.
BET: Fashion Blackout Encore Tonight and Sunday
BET News examines the issue in a segment called "Fashion Blackout." I missed the first airing but it will air again tonight at 7:30 (Eastern and Pacific times) and again on Sunday at 11 a.m.
From the website:
So is the fashion industry racist? Or are Blacks simply “not in” this season? And why should we care? We will explore the issue and how the exclusion of an entire race has a negative effect on Black women and their sense of self-worth. We go behind the scenes at New York’s Fashion Week to find the answers.
Since this is BET we're talking about, I don't think the segment will be sharing any information we have't already heard but I think it is good that more people are talking about the issue.
Real Life vs Runway: Thandie Newton in Roberto Cavalli
Looking at this Roberto Cavalli gown on the runway model does absolutely nothing for me. It just hangs on her like a sequined boho feedbag.
Designers like skinny models because they get to use less fabric in creating the runways looks and because bony models supposedly don't distract from the clothes themselves.
To my eye, they don't seem to add much to them either. I would never have looked at this particular dress and thought it would even be worth salivating over but it truly becomes something else entirely on Thandie Newton (who, to be fair, is pretty petite herself.) I just think she looks fantastic in it.
I've often thought that the reason celebrities provoke such clothing hysteria is because it gives the average person an opportunity to see how designer clothes look on someone who eats more than once a week. Of course, there are exceptions to this but it is rare that become enamored of I see something I see on the runway these days.
Photo source: Scriptgirl/TFS
Work It Girl
Style.com has named London native Jourdan Dunn among its list of Top Models for the Fall 2008 ready-to-wear season. She made news earlier by becoming the first black model in TEN YEARS to walk for Italian fashion giant Prada.Ms. Dunn and Chanel Iman seemed to be the black "it" girls of the moment. Hopefully they will also get the much needed support of fashion magazine editors and photographers to boost their respective careers to the next level. I'd hate to see either woman's career taper off the way former "it" girl Gerren Taylor's did.
The 17 year old beauty was also seen on runways for Louis Vuitton, Zac Posen, and Dries Van Noten among others.
Not surprising, Dunn is the only woman of color on this season's list.
Trio of Articles from The Independent on Discrimination Against Non-White Models
Up and coming model Jourdan Dunn has been called the "New Naomi"'Fashion is racist: insider lifts lid on 'ethnic exclusion'
..."Sadly we are in the business where you stock your shelves with what sells," she said.
"According to the magazines, black models don't sell," White continued. "People don't tend to talk about it, but black models have to be so beautiful and perfect because we can't have a lot of diversity with black models; it's harder work for the agency because there's not so much on offer. White models can have more diversity."
Ms White pointed the finger at those organising model castings, adding: "We have had casting briefs which say 'no ethnics'. But we are better in London than Paris and Milan; there if you offer a black girl they will drop the book like it's hot; it's such hard work for the bookers."
'Why should catwalks be so white?'
"London is not a white city, so why should our catwalks be so white?" said the teenager. "I go to castings and see several black and Asian girls, then I get to the show and look around and there is just me and maybe one other coloured face. They just don't get picked. I hope it's because the designer just did not think they were good enough as a model, but I don't know."
'Models often too afraid to launch a claim'
An industry so skewed towards non-ethnic minority workers is highly vulnerable to race discrimination claims. It may only take one high-profile case to trigger a torrent of race claims. The employment tribunals will then be able to set new parameters and fairer rules of employment.
The question is who will be brave enough to go first.
Thanks to Scriptgirl for the articles!
Sean Combs - NY Fashion Week
Sean Combs Fall 2008 show was apparently well received at New York Fashion Week. Interestingly, Combs only used Black male models for the show. I wonder if the runway show for his womens line will follow that example. Something tells me that he'll go back to "embracing diversity" for that one and the show will be full of the same types that one would find in his music videos.Photo credit: Exposay.com
Brazilian Models Protest Exclusion from Fashion Shows
About 20 Black fashion models in Rio protested outside of Oi (a major sponsor of the event) recently to demonstrate against what they felt was the exclusionary casting of runway shows for Fashion Rio. They claim that Black models were not given the opportunity to audition for many of the shows. Apparently only three Black models (all male) were cast for the event.I've always been fascinated by racial politics in Brazil; how on the surface the country represents itself as a racial utopia when in practice the racial bias there is so clearly evident.
UPDATE: Youtube video of BBC newcast on the protest. One source in the video claims that in a country where 50% of the population is Black or mixed race, only 2% are Black. Many designers insist that no one is excluded and one insinuated when confronted with the complaints of black models that perhaps the models weren't cast because they were not 'good' or 'tall' or 'beautiful enough.'
BBC article: Race row over Brazil Fashion Week
Source: ErikaPalomino.com
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